The Pyrenees

The morning started quiet with a lot of coffee and my stomach was in knots.

Finally we were heading out. The trail goes out of town and through the suburbs and down a paved road for a long time. The elevation wasn’t too bad, it was maybe a 6 and got progressively more sloped.

It wasn’t unbearable or unmanageable. Just had to take my time and listen to my body. I had to keep my heart rate under 140 or I started to feel a cramping in my stomach.

It took 3 hours to do the 8 km or 5 miles. Maria is significantly faster than I am. She flew up the mountain like she was shot out of a rocket.

I put my headphones in pretty early since breathing was more important than talking for me. I had a mid pace so I was in a nice bubble where I was walking alone but there were people in front and behind me.

It was really nice and special to be alone. To let the peacefulness wash over me and the weather was perfect. Sunny and warm with a nice cool breeze. Not a cloud in the sky.

When I got to Refuge Orisson, we were a bit too early to check in so we just hung out for a little while then I checked in, showered and went to lay down in the grass near the road.

The trail goes alongside a road for most of the day so cars are always passing you.

It was nice to recharge in the sunshine. Maria took a Power Nap while I journaled. I was on the lookout for the rest of our group which trickled in progressively.

Eventually we went back and joined the group on the terrace and drank beer and wine just talking about the day and getting to know each other until it was time for Pilgrim’s Dinner.

Dinner was 3 courses, seated at long farm house tables. A soup, meat and bean mixture with wine. It was really loud, fun and special.

Before the meal started, one of the employees said they had a tradition where all pilgrims would stand and state their name, where they were from and why they were walking the Camino.

It was really sweet and there were a lot of Americans, and Canadians but also sprinkles of Germans, Italians, South African and others.

The reasons all varied and some were quite emotional. It was a nice was to meet new people.

The sun was setting when dinner was complete and I went immediately to bed. Hoping for a good nights sleep.

The room that we are in houses 8 people, mixed men and women. I got a lower bunk so that was great. It started out cold but then got progressively warmer till it was like a furnace. I tossed and turned all night. The heat was pretty unbearable and the chorus of snoring was pretty terrible. Even with ear plugs.

I was up by 5:30. Maria couldn’t sleep either so we packed up our things outside the dorm so we wouldn’t walk anyone up. Our entire dorm room was awake before the other room.

The sun still hasn’t risen when we went out to sit on the terrace. It was cool and you could see so many stars. Maria swears she saw shooting stars but I didn’t see any.

Breakfast was toast, cereal, coffee and juice.

Luckily I still had food left over so I could snack throughout the day.

We started hiking about 8 am and that was the last time I saw Maria until the end of the day.

It was really cool to walk with the sun coming up with me.

The fog rolled in and out as I hiked up on a smooth paved road. Similar to the Blue Ridge Parkway, winding its way slowly up the mountain. It was too steep but it was relentless. When the fog would lift, the views were epic with cows, sheep and horses free grazing.

The trail eventually left the road and started in a grassy, dirt path then progressively became a really beautiful forested area.

I just listened to music again and walked solo into Roncesvalles.

The down hill was really vicious and my knees were screaming at me.

I finally found Maria and Laura at the end of the hike and we had a picnic next to the river since we were still too early to check in. We had private rooms this time and I was really grateful for it.

I had to elevate my legs after I showered and felt really drained.

We had a group dinner for anyone that wanted to attend. It was pretty good. I had a goat cheese salad, steak and dessert.

Hand washed all my stuff and laid them on the heaters.

The fog came back and the evening was really chilly. I left windows open so I could actually sleep.